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	1 April The left hand side fuel tank wasn't very nice inside so a new one has gone in. You have to order the filler cap, fuel tank sender and pick up pipe separately. For the sender, I ordered the "right" bolts from the manual, they didn't fit so I tapped them out to 3/16" UNF. There's 3 terminals on the sender and Craddocks don't supply any wiring instructions! I have a sneaking feeling that the sender is not right as I can't get them to display over 3/4 full even when tank is full.
	10 April The lightweight has a couple of dinky mudshields in the front wheel arch (the black bit in front of the hole for the brake pedal). The top bolts to a aluminium plate welded to the wing. This the point where you find out that certain things have to go in a certain order. The adjuster nut on the steering box got in the way of inserting the mudshield so after a lot of attempts it was time to remove the brake pedal box and remove everything holding the steering box in place. Then with a lot of shoving, the mudshield finally went in. Now I've got to do everything up again.
	13 April Second wing on this weekend. Much easier to fit the mudshield on this side as there is no steering box in the way. The headlamp boxes are a pig to fit in the wrong order. I reckon the best way is boxes first, then side and flasher lights and then headlamp bowls. There seems to be some inconsistency on the web as to whether flasher is on top of side or vice versa. I've put them in how I bought it! It's funny but when you look back at what you've achieved over a weekend, it doesn't seem very much
	13 April Right hand floor plate now mostly bolted down. 2 bolts left which will be tricky as the bottom is so inaccessible. I hate the standard nut plates but its difficult to avoid them entirely. Plate on 4 wheel drive lever still needs painting. I managed to fit the clutch cylinder this weekend. The best way would have been before fitting the bulkhead but I was late ordering it. The pipe from the slave cylinder comes in a coil so the first thing is to carefully unroll it. Fortunately, I'd kept the old one so I used that as a template and was surprisingly successful. The old slave cylinder had a adapter that turned the bleed point back towards the rear of the car. Why? It makes it much harder to get at so I stuck with the arrangement on the replacement which bolts direct into the cylinder and points forward.
	20 April Time to fit the capping to the body sides. I use these clamps from an aircraft supplies company to make sure everything is lined up first and then fit the blind pop rivets. I've only got an old hand gun so it's hard work.
	24 April Upper vent panel on. It was quite hard work getting the outer bolts in and I had to slightly enlarge a couple of holes. If I had retained the original bulkhead, this might not have been a problem. Given that I'd heard stories of leaks here, I used 2 windscreen seal strips with one slightly cut down in width. Only one fly screen as I can't find the outer ones yet.
	10 May Time to start thinking electrics. For my MG rebuild, I designed my own wiring system and I will do the same thing here. At least I will have a decent fusebox!. Not much progress for 2 weeks as I do the design for the wring system. I've cut out the auxiliary relay and the wiring for the NATO hitch, wiring it for a conventional 7 pin trailer socket instead. I start by setting out each section in Visio and then load each wire into a database application. Putting the sheets in plastic folders like this makes it useful on the workbench. I always start at the fusebox as this is where a lot of wires end up and it's easier to get the wire lengths right at the other end. Here the horn relay is getting wired. The container for the fusebox will contain the fuse system and the relays.
	10 May This is the fusebox container which will be bolted to the top of the nearside front wheel arch. Convoluted tubing is used on the main runs.I messed up here and managed to end up with too short wires in a couple of cases - this is where I had run wires from the back of the vehicle to the fusebox, rather than the other way round. All electrical parts from Vehicle Wiring Products. On thing you have to do at an early stage in ten build is fit the wire loom to the back of the vehicle inside the chassis and seal it with a couple of big rubber seals.
	10 May I've fitted a big multi spade connector behind the left hand instrument panel so connections are easier.
	10 May Fuse box on. It is sitting slightly unevenly and has distorted. I'll need to pack the rogue corner with a washer or 2.

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144 records found. Page 13 of 15 displayed.