For most of the photos on this page, you can click the image for a larger picture.
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5 December 2009 |
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11 February 2010
Starting to look almost complete |
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11 February 2010
The rear number plate letters are not at all like the grotty stick on ones you used to get from H & L or Williams in Cheltenham. I've retained the original sellers plate - E R Wiliams of Mold in North Wales |
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6 March 2010
Brake light switches proved to be a bit of a problem. I couldn't find the original one and the alternatives didn't seem very good. The clamp provided with this one was too small for the frame and too big for anything else. My brother in law helped again with a stainless bracket. This can be rotated to set the right spring pressure. |
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6 March 2010
2mm spacers are required between the tank and the frame at the front. Source - brother in law. |
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6 March 2010
Life in a Bantam after 17 years hibernation! No photos as I was too busy. The last bit was a fuel pipe and then it was time to start kicking. After some clangs, I worked out that the exhaust bracket was the wrong way round. After a lot of kicking, I gave up and bumped it down the drive. At the last minute, it coughed into life. It was obvious that the timing was out, in spite of using a dial gauge and following the instructions. So, back to a wet finger and a steadily advanced the timing by removing the "cam" and resetting it. Once it started to kick back badly, I knew it was to far advanced so back a bit. The major problem was that I could only get 2 gears. I'm told that the D14 is more feisty as its a lot more particular about timing than the D7. I did manage to get it going backwards once! |
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28 March 2010
This is why I couldn't get the right gears. I've never stripped this bit down and hadn't realised that the selector from the engine I'd been sold was misaligned. It's not covered in the Haynes manual but it is in the Workshop Manual (available on the net). I'm not sure that the selector on the right was engaging properly so I swapped it for the original. Having put the gearbox back together again, I can get 4 gears. |
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30 March 2010
This is how I put the engine back in. I first fit the chain so I can use the back brake to lock the sprocket while I tighten the nut. The tab washer is bent over afterwards. |
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30 March 2010
Fitting the barrel. I find it best to have as little as possible fitted to the engine so that its easy to get in the frame. The rings have pegs in the piston so you've got to make sure they're lined up properly. |
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31 March 2010
The problems with pattern(non original BSA) tools. This is how I fit the clutch. The 6 springs need to be compressed and the retaining circlip fitted. The tool was bought some years ago; when I came to use it, I found that the end of the legs protruded in too far. The legs wouldn't fit between the clutch drum and the sprocket. I trimmed them to the point that the whole thing would fit. Unfortunately, I then found that the legs would spring apart; hence the g cramp stopping them splaying. You've got to make sure that the circlip engages in all of the slots round the drum. |